Rozafa Castle

Crowning the 113m-high hill towering above the confluence of the Buna and Drini rivers, Shkodra's impressive top sight is the pride of the locals. Whether it's a castle or a fortress/citadel can be discussed, fact is that Shkodra's history started on this hilltop with the establishment of a Bronze Age settlement 4000 years ago, followed much later by an Illyrian fortress. Between the first two citadel gates you'll get a glimpse of the Illyrians' so-called Cyclopean walls, consisting of huge, meticulously puzzled-together rocks, dating back to 350BC. In early medieval times a proper castle was built, and it's from this period that the famous legend of Rozafa originates – a legend that is found back in various forms across the Balkans. This particular one was first written down by famous local writer Marin Barleti in 1504. The story goes that the three brothers who were constructing the castle arrived to work each day finding the previous day's work demolished. A wise man was consulted and told them that only a human sacrifice could stop the devil from stopping their work, and the brothers agreed to offer the first of their wives who would come up the hill to bring food. Unfortunately, the two older brothers broke their promises and told their wives to stay at home – and it was the youngest brother's beautiful wife Rozafa who showed up the next day. She valiantly agreed to be immured in the castle walls on one condition – a hole should be left so that her right arm could caress her newborn son, her right breast could feed him, and her right foot could rock his cradle. Rozafa was immured and the castle remained standing. The main medieval building still standing is St. Stephen's Church, built in 1319 and expanded by the Venetians in a Dalmatian-influenced style in the 15th century; the Venetians also built new gates and towers. The castle saw terrible sieges and battles; the Illyrians fought here with the Romans in 168BC, and in early medieval times, there were Byzantine and Slav conquests. The worst battles of all were in the 15th century during the Turkish conquest of the Balkans; first in 1474, and again in 1479 when the Siege of Shkodra left 60,000 people dead – a catastrophe for the city and also for the Christian world, as this was the beginning of centuries of Ottoman occupation. The Ottoman chronicler Kemal Pashazade noted the following about the brave defenders from Shkodra: “In spite of our efforts, we could not uproot the people, who had sharp claws and bronze bodies. They stayed in the towers of their castles like tigers on the mountain tops”. St. Stephens was turned into a mosque by adding a minaret to is, and the castle was transformed into a garrison citadel by the Turks and it was in use for military and city administration purposes until 1865, after that only for the garrison. After Albania gained independence in 1914 (the Marubi Photo Collection has a beautiful photo of the flag-raising ceremony in the citadel), it lost its significance. The castle has been tinkered with a lot throughout the millennia, and what you see now is mostly from the Ottoman and Venetian periods. After entering the massive main gate complex, there are three courtyards to explore. The first was for defence purposes; the second and largest courtyard was for the garrison; the soldiers slept and lived here. Next to St. Stephen's church/mosque there's a building that was probably built as a prison. Keep you children on a leash in this courtyard, as there are several well and holes in the ground leading to the deep cisterns that held the water needed to keep the citadel going during sieges. The third and highest courtyard was the best defended and held the garrison leadership. From the walls you have great views across the city, Lake Shkodra with the mountains of Montenegro behind it, the Buna river flowing towards the sea, and the Kiri and Drini rivers which join just below the castle before flowing into the Buna. You can also spot the old location of Shkodra's town centre below the castle: the lone Lead Mosque is all that's left of the settlement. Just in case all the defences failed, they had several secret passageways chiselled into the rocks, and leading to hidden exits on the slopes of the hill, and some can be entered. The Venetian-built arsenal in this courtyard houses the Citadel Museum, which was sadly plundered during the 1997 unrest, but still is worth a look for the maps, guns, artefacts, the sad statue of an immured Rozafa and a huge scale model. The museum has a small shop selling souvenirs and postcards. Next to the museum is the Rozafa restaurant, which is worth a visit for its terrace with views across the floodplains, and the Ottoman-style room. Planning your siege Rozafa Castle, 3km south of the city centre. Open 08:00 – 22:00. Admission 200 lek (foreigners), 100 lek (locals), 50 lek (children). The road leading up to the castle is not signposted – from the main road out of Shkodra to Tirana, turn into the street diagonally opposite the Api petrol station and turn left up a narrow bumpy road, left again when you see a small stone bridge and then right across this bridge all the way to the parking spaces beneath the main entrance. The road is fine for all cars; you can walk there from the town centre in an hour too, but it's a dusty walk past some poor areas and in the summer heat the steep hike is tiring – best get a taxi to drop you off. Adventurous types should bring along a torch to light up the interiors of the buildings and tunnels that can be entered. There are no warnings for steep drops or cistern entrances, so be careful.

Albanian Riviera

Albanian Riviera (Albanian: Riviera shqiptare/Bregu) is a coastal area in the County of Vlorë running along the Ionian Sea under the Ceraunian Mountains in Southern Albania. It should not be confused with the Albanian coastline as a whole, which includes both the Riviera and the flat coastline of the western lowland in central and north Albania. Traditionally, the region begins south of Llogara National Park, continues down along the coast through the villages of Borsh, Himara, Qeparo, Piqeras, and ends at Lukovë. The Albanian Riviera was proclaimed as the 2012 Top Value Destination by Frommer's. The region gained international attention after the 2009 reconstruction of the coastal road SH8, the 2010 tour stop of DJ Tiesto in Dhermi, and the filming of a Top Gear episode featuring a breath-taking car pursuit along the winding coastal road. The area is a major nightlife, ecotourist, and elite retreat destination in Albania. The region features traditional Mediterranean villages, ancient castles, Orthodox churches, turquoise beaches, mountain passes, seaside canyons, coves, free flowing rivers, underwater fauna, caves, and orange, lemon, and olive groves. In 48 BC during his pursuit of Pompey, Julius Caesar set foot and rested his legion at Palase. He continued onto Llogara Pass in a place later named Caesar's Pass. As part of the regional master plan, the World Bank and other institutions are financing local infrastructure projects, including the renovation of roofs and facades of traditional houses overlooking the Riviera and the construction of water supply and treatment plants.

Places to Visit in Albania

Major cities include: Tirana — the capital. Trees and mountains surround the city. Mt. Dajt is a popular tourist site for a great view of the city. Berat — Thought to be one of the oldest towns in Albania, it is a new member of the UNESCO world heritage list. Berat has long been known as the "city of 1000 windows" because of its unique Ottoman/Albanian architecture. It has a well preserved castle with residents still living inside its protective walls. Gjirokaster — another UNESCO city, located in the south is known for its unique Ottoman period architecture. There is a large castle on the hill in the middle of the city which served as a jail for many generations. A Military Museum and Art Gallery are now located inside. Gjirokaster is also the birthplace of former communist Leader, Enver Hoxha, as well as Albania's most internationally famous author, Ismail Kadare, their homes now serve as museums. Korce (Korca) — Located in southeast Albania, several miles from the Greek border, this city is Albania's cultural capital. It is full of life during the summer when you can find couples and families strolling through the city's main park, Parku Rinia. You can hike to the top of the beautiful mountain Moravia and view the city and its surrounding landscape. Don't miss the Korca Brewery (famous throughout Albania) which sponsors a week long Beer Festival every August! Kruje (Kruje) — ancient city of the national hero Skanderbeg. It consists of beautiful mountains; Skanderbeg's castle is now a museum. Kruje also contains an old style bazaar with shops selling traditional goods amid cobblestone streets. Pogradec — Overshadowed by its glitzy neighbors on the Macedonian side of the lake, the town of Pogradec has been experiencing a revival recently. Sarande — a city in southern Albania known for its unforgettable beaches and colorful spring blooms. Shkodra — the biggest town in Northern Albania. The Rozafa Castle is a major tourist attraction here. Vlore — Lively seaside city, nice beaches south of town. Passenger ferries to and from Italy dock here

Top 5 beaches in Albanian Riviera

Dhermi beach: 7km long, sandwiched between high pine-covered mountains and rolling olive groves that sit above the coastline, this gorgeous pebble beach boasts crystal-clear water which is ideal for swimming, snorkeling and diving. In high summer season sea temperature here is about 26 degrees which makes all kind of water activities a delightful experience. Dhermi beach consists of many small secluded parts. Heading north from the main beach area where most of the restaurants and hotels are located, a slightly overgrown path leads to more isolated bays and rocky coves of Drymades. There are a few family run hotels and bungalows here and there but you’ll hardly see anybody, so finding your own “private beach” is even easier than in Dhermi. Jale beach: Jale, until recently a small coastal village, without much exaggeration boasts a truly amazing beach. The main beach area remains quiet, with few music bars and restaurants which are relatively noiseless comparing to mega-disco built around the coast in Velipoja or Ksamili. The sea here is most certainly one of the cleanest along the whole of Ionian coast. Ksamili beach: One of the best known beaches in the Albanian Riviera is Ksamili beach. Located some 15 km south of Sarande, near the world famous archaeological site of Butrint, this beautiful beach with white sandy shores and blue waters which give it a more Caribbean look is one of the most visited coastal resorts in Albania, from both local and foreign tourists. Ksamili beach is ideal for relaxing and is often filled out with beach chairs where sun worshippers can sunbathe. There are a number of restaurants and bars in the area that offer drinks and good food at affordable prices. Ksamili beach is closer to the Greek island of Corfu than any other on this part of Albanian coastline. The primary attractions here are small islets, where a number of isolated coves as well as restaurants serving fresh seafood are located, that can be easily reached by a small boat. There are a number of small hotels and guesthouses in the village, some are open all year round. Be sure to book yours well in advance during high season. Pasqyrat beach: Pasqyrat beach is undoubtly one of the most beautiful in the whole Albanian Riviera. The beach is located near Ksamili, about 7km south from Sarande. This gorgeous beach is secluded and ideal for a relaxed stay. The beach holds such a name (pasqyrat = statements) because of the surrounding rocks which appear to reflect the stunning beauty of nature. This stony beach is maintained and lets you enjoy some of the most magnificent views in the whole Ionian coast. The beach is reachable by a car and a small restaurant that serves seafood fruit and fresh fish can be found nearby. Manastir beach: Manastir beach located halfway between Sarande and Ksamili lies in a small bay near hotel Kristal. The sea water here is crystal clear and there is plenty of sunshine to enjoy until the day’s end. The parking is free and you can eat the seafood at the restaurant of hotel Kristal.

Europe's last corner: Beaches and beauty in Albania, the hidden bargain of the Balkans

Remember Albania? The crackpot Communist country where they used to cut your hair at the airport if it was too long? Where they hated everything Western, but went crazy over Norman Wisdom films? Well, it has changed. Once upon a time, the only tourists it welcomed were serious-minded students of Stalinism. Today, it is bucket-and-spade families in search of a bargain beach holiday, and a lot more besides. Albania is a little like Spain 50 years ago, with prices to match. Take a break on its Adriatic coast, and as well as enjoying miles of sandy beaches, you have timewarp prices that will bring a smile to your lips, too. Coffee at 40p per cup, beer at 90p per pint, wine at £4 a bottle. What’s more, you don’t have to fly over several different time zones to get there. From Gatwick, there are four British Airways departures per week to the Albanian capital, Tirana, and you’re in the air for just under three hours. Which is less time than it takes to travel to Greece. And once you have landed, there are no long, stomach-churning coach transfers across the mountains: just a quick, 30-minute drive down the motorway. Two of the biggest destinations are the holiday town of Durrës (ancient Dyrrhachion), and the nearby resort of Golem. Of the two, Durrës is the more built up. For many years, this was just about the only holiday destination available, both to Albanians and their landlocked cousins in Kosovo and Macedonia. This makes it the Blackpool of the Balkans, only with dancing bears on the prom instead of illuminations. Like its Lancashire counterpart, the Durrës seafront is wall-to-wall hotels, bars and restaurants, which means you enjoy a front-row view of the ocean wherever you are staying, eating or drinking. The fact that a steak-and-wine dinner costs just 1,000 Albanian lek (around £6) tends to add yet more lustre to the sunsets. One thing you cannot expect in Durrës, though, is solitude. It is busy to bursting in the summer months, so if you find yourself casting envious glances back up to the top of the hill, where the summer palace of Albania’s former King Zog (ousted in 1939) stands in splendid isolation, you might prefer to stay a few miles down the waterfront, at the resort of Golem. This pleasing hotspot is no less popular than Durrës, but it is not as built-up and more leafy. A £3 taxi ride will take you to lovely Lalzit Bay, where, apart from miles of unspoilt sand, the only building in sight is the Insifa beach restaurant, serving seafood spaghetti at £2.50 a time, with a bottle of surprisingly nice Albanian white wine for £4.20. Be warned, though, because this state of pre-bulldozer paradise will not last for ever. Already, construction has started on a big, new upmarket apartments-and-villas development in Lalzit Bay, with British buyers on board. One of them is 65-year-old Chris Esdale-Pearson, a retired ship’s pilot from Harwich, in Essex, who bought a one-bedroom apartment with his wife a year before the development was due to open. “As I see it, we’re getting in on the ground floor,” he says. “The beach is beautiful, we’re near the mountains, and there’s plenty of places to explore that are off the beaten track. There’s no doubt about it, Albania is an emerging market.” Some consider it Europe’s last secret spot. Hardly surprising, since for most of the second half of the 20th century, the country was cut off from the rest of the world, ruled by paranoid Communist dictators who brainwashed the nation into believing that Western invasion was a daily threat. Those brave tourists who did visit the country found themselves subjected to all sorts of indignities, from being tailed by the secret police, to having their hair cut on arrival (Beatle mops were seen as a sign of decadence). Things did not really improve after the Berlin Wall was puled down. Strikes and demonstrations were followed by a disastrous get-rich-quick craze, in which half the country invested their homes and life savings in schemes paying unfeasibly high interest rates, and lost the lot in 1997, when they collapsed. Sixteen years ago, then, this was a land in which the streets were ruled by armed gangs and desperate, poverty-stricken mobs. Today it’s a holiday destination which has the winning combination of being both affordable and undiscovered; most Brits only know it from having made day trips from the Greek island of Corfu to Sarande, Albania’s southernmost port (100 miles south of Tirana). It is not only the beaches that make Albania appealing. It is well worth incorporating a couple of days in the capital, Tirana. Despite the decades of economic hardship, the city turns out out to be a metropolis of elegant avenues, boasting plenty of parkland, plus an array of attractively marzipan-coloured buildings, deployed around grassy Skanderbeg Square. As for the choice of places to stay, you can opt for the upmarket Rogner Hotel, near the Prime Minister’s residence, with gardens, tennis court and swimming pool, or else go for the smaller, homelier Villa Tafaj, a clean and prettily-arcaded hotel in Mine Peza Street. Either way, you are only a five-minute walk from the city centre, and the lovely, almost Alpine-looking Sarajet Restaurant, in Abdi Toptani Street. Here you can sip a glass of beer in the shaded courtyard, or eat vast veal chops (berxolla vici), beneath intricately carved wooden ceilings. After which, a trip to the top of the (slowly revolving) Sky Tower provides a panoramic view over the rooftops to the surrounding mountains. At the same time, though, the full force of globalisation and commercialism has not steamrollered into Tirana, ironing out the local peculiarities. Pirimida, the crumbling old ‘International Centre of Culture’, was once a museum to the feared dictator Enver Hoxha, and now awaits demolition. The fast food outlets retain their own unique identities: there’s AFC (Albanian Fried Chicken) instead of KFC, and there’s Kolonat, which serves burgers, but has as its symbol an exploded version of the McDonald’s M-shaped yellow arches. What’s more, the language has an identity all of its own. When you’re attempting to say “thank you”, the phrase is 'faleminderit'. As for “goodbye”, it’s not 'ciao' or 'au revoir', but 'mirupafshim', which sounds more like a sneeze than a farewell. This is Europe, then, but not as we know it. Nevertheless. with a million expatriate Albanians pumping money back into the homeland, and with tourist numbers increasing all the time (four million last year), you cannot help feeling that if you want to catch the authentic Albania, you had better go there soon.

Valbona Valley National Park

With an area of 8,000 hectares Valbona Valley National Park is the gem of Albanian Alps - Accursed Mountains. Valbona is the name of the river which flows throug the Valbona Valley and the village bearing the same name located in the Tropoja District of Northern Albania. The district of Valbona Valley, bordering Kosovo to the northeast, and Montenegro to the northwest, in combination with the adjacent Theth district to the west, encompasses a region called the Malësi in Albanian, which translates roughly as "The Highlands". It is located 25-30 km to the north west of Bajram Curri town in Northern Albania and is adjacent to the Theth National Park. Valbona Valley lies between the rugged and remote and breathtaking mountain peaks and makes a festival of colors and contrasts. Its biodiversity makes it very important as a tourist attraction. Valbona village is the focal point of the Valbona National Park. Its configuration, hydrology, forests, flowers, characteristic dwellings and the hospitality of its people make this park an ideal place to visit and invigorate. Rocky and steepy high peaks, such as Jezerce, Iron, Kollata (Podi of Kollatës), and Pecmarrës attract trackers and alpinists. Agricultural and livestock products or the Valbona Valley National Park and area are completely natural, and entirely organic. Food is generally fresh and home made, but it is also sometimes processed and canned by the inhabitants of the tiny and remote villages. Stunning nature, clean air, high and characteristic mountain peaks, lakes, numerous water resources, forests, mountains, flora and fauna of Valbona Valley National Park provide conditions for true eco tourism experiences.

Kruja - Kruje

The first Albanian feudal state was declared at Krujë - Kroja by the Archon Progon in 1190. Progon's older son, Gjin Progonović was Lord of Krujë and Elbasan from 1200 to 1208. The independent state of Albania founded by Progon lasted until the middle of the 13th century, after which the country relapsed into disunity. Kruja is the birthplace of 15th century hero George Kastrioti Skanderbeg /Gjergj Kastrioti Skënderbeu/, Albania's national hero who gave the invading Turks a serious beating. Gjergj Kastrioti converted to Islam soon after arriving at Adrianople in 1423, adopting the name Iskendar, known as "Skanderbeg". He served the Sultan and became a high ranking military commander. On Skanderbey father's death, Sultan Murad II ordered Hasan beg, Ottoman Governor of Krujë, to take control of all the Kastriot property. Skanderbeg revolted in 1443, deserting the Ottoman army which opposed the western crusaders when they recaptured Niš commanded by Janos Hunyadi, a revered general known as the White Knight. Kastrioti-Skanderbeg entered the Turkish fortifications at Krujë and massacred the Turkish pasha and the Muslim contingent stationed there. The following morning the Kastrioti family's standard - a red flag emblazoned with a black, double-headed eagle that has since been adopted as Albania's national flag - fluttered in the breeze over the city's castle. Here Kastrioti-Skanderbeg reportedly made his historic pronouncement: "I have not brought you liberty, I found it here, among you."Skanderbeg obtained possession of Krujë by tricking Hasan beg with a forged instruction from the sultan, and announced his reconversion to Christianity. Skanderbeg allied himself with the Araniti family, marrying Gjergj Araniti's daughter. He called a congress at Alessio, inviting all the Albanian chiefs, and was appointed commander of the Albanian armies which defeated the Ottomans in June 1444 and again at Danj in September 1448. Skanderbeg defeated a further Ottoman attack in 1456, although in 1457 a large Ottoman army occupied the plains of Albania up to the borders of Venice's Alassio. With some assistance from the Vatican, as well as from the powerful lords of Naples and Venice, Kastrioti-Skanderbeg continued to repulse successive efforts by the Turks to invade Albania over the next 25 years, including at Dibër and at Ochrid in 1462. Skanderbey's major supporter, King Alfonso of Naples (1416-1458), made the Albanian general his vassal in 1451. Alfonso supplied the Albanian army with needed funds, military equipment, and additional troops, and also acted as a protector by extending sanctuary to Kastrioti-Skanderbeg and his family. After the Venetians were drawn into the war in 1463, Sultan Mohammed II agreed a peace treaty signed in April 1463, although the armistice soon collapsed. After unsuccessfully besieging Krujë in 1467, the Sultan returned the following year only to be defeated once more by Skanderbeg. Skanderbeg died on 7 January 1468 from natural causes. The legend says that, on hearing of Skanderbeg's death, Sultan Mehmed II exclaimed: "At last Europe and Asia belong to me! Poor Christendom. It has lost both its sword and shield!". Look at the Kruje Fortress dominating from the 611 meters hill Skanderbey was defending and you can understand how it is possible that the Albanians were able to resist for so long against a much stronger opponent. Kruja citadel with the ruins of the Fatiha mosque was the stronghold of the Skanderbeg (George Kastrioti) between 1443 and 1468 in his struggle against the Ottoman Empire. Kruja is town 32 km north of Tirana, easy to reach on local transport, and one of the most popular tourist destinations in Albania. Kruja has commanding views of dramaticaly snow capped mountains and green valleys below. Inside the Skanderbeg Citadel in Kruja, on the slope of Sari Salltiku mountain, there is a stunning wall painting of the Battle led by King Skanderbeg, with his notable goat-helmet. Cobbled streets take you to the famous Kruja Old Baazar selling lots of traditional souvenirs and constantly visited with number of tourists throughout a year. The National Ethnographic Museum of Kruja is housed in the 18th century 'urban' building. There are around sixteen rooms in the Kruja Ethnographic Museum which exhibit several artefacts of the region from times bygone. Some of the exhibits of the National Ethnographic Museum in Kruja tell you about how people lived in ancient times. Adequate care has been taken to ensure that original items are displayed in the museum. Some of the items displayed in the National Ethnographic Museum in Kruja date back to 500 years ago. The samples of embroidery on cotton, silk and woollen clothes are exquisite to behold. Other items like pottery and metal objects are also interesting to explore. Kruja is one of the most frequented tourist sites in Albania. Covering an area of 2,000 hectares, the Shtama Park is 25 km to the northeast of Kruja. The water sources "Queen Mother" is one of the most attractive spots in the Shtama Park with clean, cold and curative waters. The Park is frequented by a large number of visitors.